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Posts Tagged ‘mini fee’

It’s the season for thinking of bunnies and cuteness, and my contribution is now up for sale in my Ravelry store!

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That’s right, I have finally released the Ur-Bun Hoodie pattern for Slim Mini, Standard Mini, and Large BJDs!  It’s my favourite style of boxy, loose knitwear – the sort that looks terrible on me but wonderful on my dolls – and like all my patterns it’s written to be pretty beginner friendly.  It does involve cables and require reading charts, but both are simple enough to be a great introduction for the adventurous beginner.  It’s also a fun base for anyone who, like me, loves to mod designs for a unique twist!  Adjusting the length is an easy way to get a very different look from the same pattern, as I found when I worked my final sample in the largest size.  I’m so pleased with how this coat came together, and I hope you will be too!
Photos taken by the wonderful Vessellated; the model is Insoulated‘s beautiful MiniFée Shiwoo Elf, Dieudonnée.  Thanks, guys!

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BoxHood

Boxhood
for Minifee

First time knitting a sweater? Try Boxhood! It has a few increases and decreases for you to practice, but goes together very simply. I based the pattern on the first sweater I ever knit in human size–if I could do it after starting on scarves & dishcloths, so can you! The only thing that’s a little challenging is the pocket–you can knit it separately and sew it on later, or leave it off entirely, but it’s not as scary as it seems, promise!

Boxhood is also a great opportunity to play with colour. I like to put a contrasting edging at the hood and wrists; it also looks great with a horizontal stripe across the chest. It should work well with self-striping sock yarns as well, as you can see on the original Edik is modelling!


Skills you will need for this sweater include:
basic knit & purl stitches, cast on, bind off
3-needle bind off
k2tog (knit 2 together) and ssk (slip-slip-knit together) decreases
m1 increase

Materials:
1 ball of sock yarn (I used somewhere between 150-200 yards)
2mm (size 0) circular or double-pointed needles
stitch holders (safety pins, waste yarn, or a smaller needle work well)

Gauge:
3.5 stitches/cm (9 stitches/inch)
5 rows/cm (14 rows/inch)

Instructions

c.o. 64 sts, join to work in the round, being careful not to twist
work 3 rows in k2 p2 rib
change to stockinette stitch
work even until sweater measures 2 cm (about 3/4”)

kangaroo pocket
The pocket is knitted back and forth on one needle. Let’s call it the “pocket needle” and the other needle(s) you’ve used this far, the “body needle”. It’s a good idea to use a row counter for the pocket.

K 7. Transfer next 18 sts to pocket needle. Using body needle, pick up 18 sts in the back of the sts on the pocket needle. Finish knitting the round on the body needle.
Leave body stitches for now and knit the pocket. I recommend not breaking the yarn if possible–just take the tail from the outside of your ball.

Start with a WS row. Join new yarn and P across all 18 sts on the pocket needle.
Row 1: K 18
Row 2: P 18
rep. these rows once more (you have just knit 5 rows straight on the pocket needle).

begin pocket shaping
Row 1: K 1, ssk, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1
Row 2: P across
rep. these two rows until 12 sts remain on the pocket needle (two more times).

Work even for 5 rows in stockinette. (15 rows total)
Break yarn and let the pocket stitches wait while you work the body.

If you used a row counter with the pocket, you can now count backwards as you knit the body.

Take up the body needles again, starting from the beginning of the round. Work 15 rows in stockinette.

join pocket
K11, place the pocket needle and body needle parallel to each other, right together. Knit one stitch from the pocket needle together with one from the body needle (see instructions for 3-needle bind-off, just don’t bind off!) until there are no more pocket stitches.
Work even until sweater measures 9cm.

Split front and back: keep first 32 sts on your working needle (front). Place next 32 sts on a stitch holder/waste yarn/spare needle.

front
Work 6 rows even, ending with a WS row.
Split for (crossover) neckline: K 17, start new yarn, pick up in last 2 sts on right needle, K to end. You now have two halves of the front, with a very slight overlap at the centre.

From here on, work the 3 sts at the edge of the neckline in garter stitch (that is, on each WS row, work the last 3 sts of the right front, and the first 3 sts of the left front as knit stitches, purling all other sts).
front increase row
On next RS row (row 3 after split), work this increase row:
Right Front: K to last 5 sts, M1, K to end.
Left Front: K 5, M1, K to end.
rep. this increase row every fourth row two more times (increase on rows 2, 6, and 10, finishing with 19 sts each side).

Work even until work measures 13 cm from beginning of sweater (about 4 more rows), ending with a RS row.

Place the front pieces on stitch holders or waste yarn and start the back.

back
Work even for 6 rows.
On next RS row, work back increase row: K to centre, M1 twice, K to end.
Work even for 5 rows, work back increase row.
rep. these 6 rows one more time.
Work even until back measures the same as front, 13 cm from c.o. edge.

shoulders
Turn work inside out.
Using 3-needle bind off, bind off 6 sts at each shoulder. The remaining sts are your “hood” sts. Turn work right side out again.

hood
starting with yarn at the neck opening, on a WS row:
Row 1 (and all WS rows): K3, P to last 3 sts, K3 (48 sts)
Row 2: K3, *K7, m1, rep. from * to last 3 sts, K3 (54 sts)
Row 4: K3, *K8, m1, rep. from * to last 3 sts, K3 (60 sts)
Row 6: K3, *K9, m1, rep. from * to last 3 sts, K3 (66 sts)
Row 8: K3, *K10, m1, rep. from * to last 3 sts, K3 (72 sts)

Work even until hood measures 8 cm from shoulder.
Decrease 2 sts at the centre of every RS row (start with K 34, SSK, K2tog, K34) 5 times (62 sts).
Split stitches onto two needles (31 sts on each). Turn hood inside out & put right sides together. Using 3-needle bind off, bind off all hood stitches.

sleeves
note: I picked up stitches at the armhole for the sleeves, but you could just as easily knit them separately and then sew them in.
Pick up (or cast on) 28 sts around armhole. If you are picking up, add 2 sts at the bottom (where front & back first separate) for a small gusset. Join to work in the round.
Decrease 2 at the armpit in the first round (if you picked up extra as above).
Work even until sleeve measures 3 cm.
decrease row
K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, ssk, K1
Rep this row 6 times, every 6 rows (16 sts)

Work even until sleeve measures 11 cm.
Work 3 rows in K2 p2 rib.
Bind off.
(Sew in sleeve)

Weave in all ends, and you’re done!

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